Riding Horses on 的 西藏an Plateau

第二天,我们又早又醒了(现在已经习惯了),拿起行李,我跟小猫说再见,然后我们去了汽车站。因为我们是通过Sims预订的,所以他们认为有必要陪伴我们去汽车站。我认为这有点可笑,因为前两天我们是通过公共巴士自己到达公交车站的,但是我绝对没有’t mind 的 “free”坐出租车。在车站,我们收到了票,并登上了前往松潘的7小时巴士。至少可以说这辆车有点舒适。腿部空间足够多(与去MiddleMountain的巴士不同),但座椅本身非常狭窄,比Nate狭窄’的肩膀。好。现在内特感觉不太舒服。我们在峨眉山寺院吃的晚餐让奈特感到非常不安’s stomach. He didn’t eat 任何东西 the entire climb down Emei Shan, and 原为 feeling even worse today. To make matters worse 的 bus 原为 . I had worn leggings because 的 busses are always 没有rmally 自由zing but this bus had 没有 air conditioning and 的 windows 没有’t open. The only thing 那 做了 open (besides 的 door) 原为 a 小 “skylight” (more like a submarine porthole) on 的 top of 的 bus. Now 的 problem with this little porthole was that when 的 bus 原为n’移动非常快,它什么也没做。 Now I 原为 asleep for 的 first little part of 的 bus ride, but about a half hour in, I woke up a sweaty mess, barely able to breathe because our bus 原为 很热.

The bus 原为 stopped, barely moving, in a giant traffic jam. Apparently 的 new highway 那 had just been built from Chengdu to North 四川省 原为n’t quite finished yet. We later learned 那 it 原为 scheduled to open on 的 anniversary of 的 四川省 earthquake, but 的y fell behind schedule. But because it’s 中国, 的y opened it anyway and built a detour while finishing 的 last few tunnels. We were stuck in 的 detour and it 原为 . All at once everyone seemed to be realizing how extremely 热 and muggy it 原为 on 那 bus. Not only 原为 it 热, it felt like 的re 原为n’t enough oxygen. People were fanning 的mselves, complaining, and staring at 的 bus driver wondering if 的re 原为 任何东西 he could do. Nope. And it 原为 torture. And I wanted to kill Nate just a little bit. I 原为 squished between his broad shoulders and 的 window, I 原为 exhausted, couldn’t breath, we weren’t moving and I just 没有’t want him to touch me. I have to say I 原为 a little bitchy/cranky to him for 的 seven hour bus ride, especially since he 原为 sick, but at 那 point I 原为 cursing him for being so tall and big and all I wanted 原为 to have my own little space.

Once we started moving it got a little better, but 的 sun 原为 streaming into 的 bus, and my window 原为 missing a curtain, so I pulled 的 one curtain I had and stretched it diagonally, pinning it with my shoulder behind me to try and block out some of 的 sun. I guess leggings were a very bad idea. I 做了, however, get to read Hannah’s book, 犹太洁食,这让我很开心… most of 的 bus ride. Another thing 那 kept Nate and I laughing 原为 的 fact 那 my legs were so sore from Emei Shan 那 I couldn’t physically walk down hills or stairs. This meant 那 getting off 的 bus 原为 pretty comical. I had to support myself on either side with my arms and pretty much jump/slide down.

说到休息站,有一次我们停下来吃拉面作为午餐。我拿了一些拉面,内特坐在那里,不说话也不吃东西,因为他感觉像死了。有一次我们决定去洗手间。这是一个笨重的,有排水沟的厕所,类似于云南的厕所,我等着轮到使用… trough. When a “stall” opened up, I hesitated, because 的re 原为 another girl standing 的re. Was she waiting for 那 失速 in particular? Why 做了 she choose to wait inside if it smelled so bad in 的re? She 的n waved me over and pointed to 的 失速. Okay? I walked over and she stood 的re staring at me. She continued to watch me as I went to squat down. What 的 heck?! I mean she couldn’什么都看不到,但我无法’撒尿看着她!她是不是很惊讶,以至于一个西方女孩知道如何使用她必须注意的蹲便便?她认为白人有蓝尿吗?我不’不知道,但是当她最终离开时,我感到很高兴,因为我实际上不得不变得非常糟糕。你去了:近距离亲眼观察我一生中最尴尬的时刻。是的,我的一生。

We continued on 的 bus and eventually, after seven hours, arrived in Songpan. Lonely Planet 没有’t make Songpan sound like much, but Songpan is a very cute little town! I almost wished we had a full day to explore, rather than 的 three day horse trek. I 做了 a horse trek once in high school, it 原为 three days in 的 Cascades and it 原为 pretty fun. However, I 原为 a little worried about this one. Firstly, it might just be me and Nate, and frankly, I 原为 hoping for a little more company. Nate is great and all, but it would be nice to have some English speaking friends 那 aren’t Nate几天。特别是在峨眉山旅行中, 只有我们 一整天 爬下那座山。让’只是说我们俩都想结交一些新朋友。其次,内特从未真正骑马过,除了很小的时候。我不’认为内特真的知道自己正在从事什么。我们之所以报名参加这一特别活动的原因是Nate’s foreign policy teacher in 北京 told 的 class 那 的 three day 冰山 horse trek 原为 one of 的 best things he’到目前为止,在中国已经完成了。最后,内特真的病了,所以 we were both hoping 那 he’d一夜之间奇迹般地恢复。

We were met at 的 bus station by a horse trek guide, who took us to 的 main office a block away. He told us 那 many westerners loved to do 的 horse trek, and showed us 的 names of three westerners on a list. Awesome! We weren’t 的 only ones going! We were 的n lead down 的 hill to 的 hostel. We were told 那 we could stay in 的 dorm for 自由, or upgrade to a double. We decided to take 的 自由 room, and headed into 的 hostel, which 原为 basically a courtyard surrounded by rooms. We stayed 的 night in a room 那 actually consisted of two rooms and six beds total… and 那’s about it. The bathroom 原为 located in 的 opposite corner of 的 courtyard, and it 原为 rough. It 原为 basically some sort of run down laundry/storage room with one squat toilet 那 原为 disgusting. Funnn!

我们的旅馆!

我们的旅馆!

我们决定在山上漫步至主要街道(唯一的主要街道)以获取水。然后我们偶然发现了艾玛’s Café。我们已经读过关于艾玛的事情 ’在孤独星球(Lonely Planet)中,并得到了一名男子骑着自行车从公交车下车的一张卡片,所以我想了为什么不在那里吃饭呢?内特除了吃巧克力味饼干外,什么心情都没吃,所以我去了艾玛。’晚餐。当我走进门时,我的父母周围某处的澳大利亚人向我致意’年龄和他的妈妈。他们刚从他哥哥那里来’在菲律宾的婚礼上,现在这个男人带他的妈妈到中国来。他以前去过中国很多次,并告诉我他喜欢呆在旅馆里结识人们,以廉价的方式乘坐公共汽车和火车。我赞扬他的母亲在她的同龄人中乘坐七个小时的公交车穿越四川乡村-她必须’ve been in her late seventies or something. I ordered a plate of spaghetti (SPAGHETTI) and talked with 的m about where 的y had been. It 原为 interesting to see how 的y differed in what 的y enjoyed most about traveling: The man loved talking with people, especially people very different from himself. His mom, however, loved amazing scenery and old temples. She kept raving about 的 西藏an Plateau and all of 的 yaks.

艾玛的

艾玛’s

While I 原为 waiting for my spaghetti sipping on my ENGLISH BREAKFAST TEA, two guys around my age came over to join us. One 原为 from 香港 and 的 other 原为 from Canada. They were cousins and 的 Canadian boy, who is my younger brother’s age- 原为 traveling with his cousin, aunt and uncle in Mainland 中国. They had a private driver driving 的m around 四川省(sounds so much nicer than a 7 hour bus ride), and 的y had actually met 的 Australian mother-son group in a different town! We were all talking and getting to know one another when a group of police officers walked into 的 restaurant. I think 那 原为 的 first time I had ever seen policemen in 中国. I’我看到的保安人员和军人人数比我想象的要多,但 没有 警察。它’很奇怪,因为在美国,警察和军官让我感到安全,但是在中国,’完全相反。在美国,如果一名警官走进餐厅,没人会三思而后行,他们唯一吓到我的就是’m driving. Even if I’我没有超速驾驶,如果我在高速公路的侧面看到警车,我仍然会有轻微的恐慌发作,但这是不同的。在中国’除了在天安门广场和紫禁城外,我从来没有真正要看过我说的话,所以让他们看我们是一种有趣的感觉。这位澳大利亚人告诉我,西藏远不止是天意。藏族居住在西藏高原,青藏高原和川北大部分地区,因此从技术上讲我们在西藏!什么时候 他在向我解释这件事“Tibet”, 的 policemen’s heads whipped towards us- 不 的 best feeling in 的 world. The Australian man said 那 since 的 boys from 香港 and Canada looked Chinese, 的y were probably paying extra close attention to our table- three westerners and two Chinese-looking people chatting away about 西藏 in English. At one point Bo Xilai came up, and we really needed to speak in soft voices- especially when saying his name. If you don’不知道薄熙来是谁,不知道’不想去谷歌搜索-基本上他是重庆的负责人,“crackdown on crime”以及促进回归“Red 中国”-缩小贫富差距。他非常有魅力,与中国政治家的常态截然不同,并且引起了广泛的关注。今年早些时候,当他的警察长因担心自己的生命而奔赴美国大使馆时,将自己排在了共产主义精英中。他将英国外交官的死归咎于薄熙来。薄熙来被贴上了腐败的标签,并被软禁,而他的妻子,一位著名的律师,因腐败指控面临死刑。我知道我在解释它时做得很糟糕,所以如果您愿意的话,绝对可以用Google搜索它,但是它’这很有趣,因为这一切都是在我在北京的时候发生的,但是却保持了安静。我知道的唯一原因是在我的社会学课上。

无论如何,警察最终还是离开了,我们可以像往常一样继续谈话。最终,这些家伙不得不离开,我和澳大利亚人呆在一起聊天。这位澳大利亚男子想向我介绍他的旅馆的主人,他也是艾玛旁边一家小型按摩店的主人。’s café. The woman 原为 的re with all of her kids and she 原为 so nice! She made us cup after cup of 西藏an tea, while we sat in 的 waiting area by 的 front door talking about politics and 的 world. This woman 原为 very interesting because she 原为 Han Chinese married to a 西藏an man, which is very rare. Han Chinese don’通常与少数族裔混在一起,尤其是“scary ones” like 西藏ans. The Australian man had 不 only traveled all over 中国, he had also been toIraq, Iran, Saudi Arabia- you name it. He told me 那 you can only learn so much by reading and watching 的 news, and he decided 那 he wanted to discover 的 truth about 的 world himself. We had a great conversation about Chinese politics, which 的n lead to 的 war in 的 middle east- it 原为 definitely an interesting conversation. After a while I decided to head back- mainly because I had so much tea I 原为 going to pee my pants. I hobbled/ walked backwards down 的 hill to my hostel and met up with Nate who 原为 still 不 feeling well- uh oh. We called it an early night, excited for 的 horse trek and hoping for sunshine and calm stomachs.

The next morning Nate and I dropped our large backpacks in 的 storage room and headed to 艾玛’s for breakfast. 艾玛 is literally 的 nicest woman ever- she speaks very good English and 工作s very hard even though she is extremely pregnant. Apparently she used to 工作 as a secretary for 的 horse treking company, realized 那 all of 的 westerners wanted somewhere to eat, and opened her own restaurant. Now 那’s what I call an entrepreneur. Nate said he 原为 feeling better thank god, so we headed over to 的 horse treking building to get going. We had been wondering where 的 other three people were 那 were supposed to go on 的 trek with us, because we had 的 room to ourselves last night. We thought 那 maybe 的y had opted to stay in one of 的 doubles with a real toilet? When we arrived we learned 那 we had been mislead- it 原为 just 的 two of us- 的 other waiguos had left 的 day before! 。整整三天,只有Nate和我们的向导陪伴。

We tried to stifle our disappointment at 不 making new friends, and followed our guide down 的 main road. After walking for a few blocks and picking up some food at various shops along 的 way, we rounded 的 corner down one of 的 alleys, which eventually lead us to a giant field with three horses tied up. They were so 小! -Almost borderline American ponies. Our 西藏an guide saddled up our horses with our supplies and we were off! My horse’的名字叫伊卢和内特’s是Dana(发音为 大啊)。

马!

马!

内特和达娜度过了愉快的时光

内特和达娜度过了愉快的时光

内特(Nate)坐在他的身上,我对达娜(Dana)感到有点难过。中国山马是 , and Nate looked hilarious on top of his tiny little white horse, especially since he had 没有 idea what he 原为 doing. The ride started off easy enough, we rode to 的 top of a cliff and 的n… we were told to disembark and walk down a huge, steep hill so 那 的 horses wouldn’t slip…. Uh oh. It had poured down rain 的 night before and I 原为 still having major walking issues from Emei Shan. Getting down 那 hill 原为 的 biggest struggle of my life. I 原为 trying to go fairly quickly to 不 fall too far behind, but every time I tried to take a 没有rmal-sized step my legs collapsed on me. My quads just 做了 工作 完全没有. There 原为 one point where 的 hill 原为 so muddy I couldn’t get any footing without feeling like I 原为 going to fall flat on my back.

如您所见,我落后了

如您所见,我落后了

Nate yelled at me to hurry up but I told him 的 only way I 原为 getting down this hill 原为 to sit on my butt and slide down in 的 mud. It 原为 an option, but 不 的 most favorable, seeing as I only had two pairs of leggings for 的 three days. Nate 原为 eventually able to use his abnormally long arms to support me as I basically jumped/fell over and out of 的 mud pit, and continued taking baby side steps down 的 mountain.

到现在为止 get pretty 冷。我带来的仅有的两条裤子是绑腿。我以为会很热吗?–But I guess I should have paid more attention to 的 whole “Ice Mountain”部分。我当时还穿着我的腕骨绑腿,这太笨了(我以前的CYO骑马营地辅导员都对我不屑一顾),因为我把我的小腿砍下来非常糟糕(’s been a month and there’s still a huge scar). I put my longer pair of leggings on over my shorter ones (awkward, but whatever) and mounted my horse, ready to let him do 的 walking for me.

再见松潘!

再见松潘!

ks牛!

ks牛!

We rode up higher and higher into 的 mountains. There were amazing views of Songpan, as well as other mountains in 的 distance. We also had 的 pleasure of riding through a herd of Yaks. I think I expected Yaks to be something like buffalo, but 的y are definitely 不! Yaks are funny little animals- 的y’re 小er and shorter than cows, with long black fur; however, 的ir fur is kind of like both my cats, in 那 it’s pretty short on top but really long on 的ir bellies. They also have short legs and little horns.1783

The babies were by far 的 cutest: somewhere between a baby cow and a baby goat. Yaks can only survive at extremely high altitudes, so it 原为 really cool 那 we were up high enough to see 的m. The only problem about being this high 原为 那 it 原为 very 。我的背心,装甲,运动衫的状况绝对不够,尤其是在下雨的时候。就像峨眉山一样,除了更冷,因为我们当时’t hiking. I tried tucking my red hands into my wet sweatshirt sleeves, while holding 的 reins, but it 没有’做很多事。我想我们应该早就买了外套…就在我正打算后悔参加这次为期三天的旅行时,我听到了背后的刺耳声音。

哦哦内特(Nate)弯腰把马吐吐到小径上。我仍然对那匹马感到非常难过。内特(Nate)撒完巧克力饼干后,他告诉我们他可以继续…但是他还不行每隔20分钟左右,他就会再次开始呕吐-但是我们一直走下去,雾蒙蒙的雨变成了真正的雨,而且越来越冷。最终,内特(Nate)决定我们无法继续前进。我们不得不转过身来。我有些放心,因为我可以穿些干衣服,在温暖的床上睡觉,但我的另一部分却担心失去我付的所有钱。我们已经在成都签署了文件,声称没有退款。我们的向导问我想做什么,我告诉他我没有’我不想自己做三天的跋涉,所以我们可以回去从那里弄清楚。.我想。他一直问我是否确定… yeah I’m pretty sure I don’t want to go on a three day horse trek with a 西藏an man as my only company. Even though he 原为 married with kids…您永远不会知道,再加上三天会很尴尬。

On 的 way back our 西藏an guide decided 那 没有w would be a good time to take a photo of me on my horse. He lent me one of his jackets since it 原为 starting to rain heavily, and took my photo. As he started taking photos and 的n forced Nate into 的 picture (hilarious, except 不 really). He wouldn’放弃,直到他得到内特之一“smiling”. Torture? Maybe.

1809

在返回途中,确实开始倾盆大雨,所以我们的导游冲了雨披。这些雨披是’只是任何雨披,它们都很厚,很重,当我站起来时几乎落在我身上。当我们的向导告诉我们,由于马会滑行(再次),我们不得不走下山的一部分时,我才发现了这一点。他不想让我花五个小时,他决定最好的方法是抓住我的手臂,然后将我从山上拉下来。我只能说是大约15分钟的时间,我被拖下了一座山,穿过地板长度的雨披上的泥泞-我的双腿在颤抖,但最好还是得到另一个人的支持,所以我不会’不会落在我的脸上。最终,我们沿着陡峭的山坡滑下,然后我们又回到了赛马场。在这一点上,我开始有点难过/沮丧。我把所有的钱都花在了骑马上,如果我没有’没得到什么?我希望他们’d让我第二天出去骑车,但我真的没有’t sure.

Eventually 的 clouds broke, 的 rain stopped and it became much warmer. We stopped by 的 guide’s village on 的 way back, so 那 his wife could walk 的 rest of 的 way with us, to help take 的 horses back. You should have seen how happy his little daughter 原为 那 her daddy 原为n’t going to be away for three days! It 原为 super cute. We eventually made it down 的 mountain (which included about a half hour of me attempting to shuffle down a hill without my legs collapsing and me falling on my face). Nate 原为 starting to act like a real person again, talking and laughing- which made me pretty angry because he 原为 应该生病了. So I told him 不 to talk to me. I 原为 angry with him and 的 situation and I 原为 having enough problems trying to walk down this mountain as it 原为. I think he thought it mostly had to do with 的 fact 那 I 原为 angry I couldn’走路,我的腿很痛-我们’ll just let him think 那. Eventually we made it to 的 bottom, but we weren’还没有完成-我们的向导让我们停下来拍摄最后一张照片。一世’我把它放在这个博客中是因为’s literally 的 worst picture in 的 entire world. I’m wearing 的 guide’的外套,吃了一块面包,因为差不多是5:00,而我没有’t eaten 任何东西 since breakfast. I can at least pull off looking happy, but Nate just looks miserable. Please feel 自由 to enjoy this picture/ laugh at our misery as much as you want.

有史以来最好的图片。

有史以来最好的图片。

This is what I had 的 pleasure of hiking down

This is what I had 的 pleasure of hiking down

最终,我们把它退回去,并向骑马公司解释了发生了什么。他们告诉我他们没有’可以退款,但我基本上可以做任何我想做的事情:再次进行3天的跋涉,两天的跋涉或一日的跋涉。我们没有’我没有时间再进行3天的旅行了,也没有人签约进行3天或2天的旅行,我真的没有 ’我不想独自一人过夜:所以我选择了第二天进行一日游,而最后一天则在城市里闲逛。有人告诉我们,我们可以再次免费在大房间里睡觉,但是Nate选择将我们升级为带浴室的双人间,因为使用带肚子问题的蹲便盆实际上是整个世界上最糟糕的事情。我上山去艾玛’s来吃晚饭,遇到了Emma和这位澳大利亚男子。他们俩看到我都感到震惊,我告诉他们发生了什么。我最终和澳大利亚男人和他的妈妈一起吃了晚饭,我们整晚都在聊天(再次),因为在我的博客上工作了!

I 原为 originally going to make this one post, but it’s SO LONG I’我要把它分成两半请继续关注我自己一天的跋涉之旅,以及Nate和我是否互相残杀。

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关于里歇尔

Expat, traveler, and spicy food lover, I've spent 的 last few years living in 中国 and traveling around Asia. In my spare time I enjoy salsa dancing, exploring night markets and stuffing my face with street food.

6 评论 on “Riding Horses on 的 西藏an Plateau

  1. 啊,现在我感觉好多了…
    顺便说一句,白人尿尿是蓝色的吗?一世’ve never looked.

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